Wicked’s Costume Magic: How Designer Paul Tazewell Drew Inspiration from The Wizard of Oz

When Wicked debuted in cinemas on November 22, 2024, audiences were spellbound by a visually stunning homage to The Wizard of Oz. Central to the film’s allure is the intricate costume design by Paul Tazewell, an Emmy and Tony-winning designer whose work in Hamilton, West Side Story, and Death Becomes Her has established him as a master of storytelling through fabric. One standout creation in Wicked is Ariana Grande’s opulent pink ball gown, marking Glinda’s entrance and setting the tone for the Jon M. Chu-directed adaptation.

A Tribute to a Classic

The first glimpse of Grande’s Glinda floating in a bubble, singing “No One Mourns the Wicked,” instantly evokes nostalgia. Tazewell’s design pays direct tribute to Billie Burke’s Glinda in the 1939 classic The Wizard of Oz, blending traditional elements with contemporary flair. The gown’s sparkling pink tulle and crystal embellishments harken back to the original, while its structured silhouette modernizes Glinda’s iconic look. “It’s about creating a bridge between the beloved classic and this fresh interpretation,” Tazewell shared in an interview.

Grande’s First Transformation

The pink ball gown is more than a visual delight—it’s transformative. Ariana Grande, wearing the gown for the first time, described it as pivotal to embodying Glinda. “The moment I stepped into that dress, I was Glinda,” Grande said. The gown, one of 25 costumes Grande wears across the two Wicked films, represents the optimism and charm Glinda exudes in the beginning, contrasting with the moral complexities that unfold later in the story.

Costumes as Characters

Tazewell’s designs serve not only as visual spectacles but also as narrative tools, aiding the actors in immersing themselves in their roles. From Elphaba’s (Cynthia Erivo) evolving ensembles that reflect her journey from misunderstood student to the infamous Wicked Witch of the West, to intricate garments for supporting characters played by Michelle Yeoh and Jonathan Bailey, every piece tells a story.

A Masterful Cast in Full Color

The vibrant and textured costumes elevate the performances of the star-studded cast, including Bowen Yang and Jeff Goldblum. Each character’s wardrobe reflects their journey, ambitions, and alignment in the shifting politics of Oz. For instance, Erivo’s dark, structured garments mirror Elphaba’s growing defiance, while Glinda’s costumes sparkle with lighter tones, embodying her public persona.

A Legacy Reinvented

With Wicked, Tazewell crafts a world where costumes do more than dazzle—they deepen the emotional and cultural ties to Oz. By referencing the iconic 1939 film while infusing fresh perspectives, the designer ensures Wicked resonates with both longtime fans and newcomers.

The pink ball gown might be the first breathtaking look, but it’s far from the last. As Grande’s Glinda sings and sparkles in her bubble, audiences are reminded that, in Oz, costumes are as much a part of the magic as the characters themselves.